Dual control on LM27

[bernina]

Hi everyone, I have recently bought an LM27 and am still familiarising myself with how it all works. It has dual position: wheel and single lever control in wheelhouse, and tiller and another control at the stern. Question: does the control I’m not using have to be disengaged completely or just in neutral when using the other one? Thanks for any reply.

[Sula]

First of all welcome to the forum. There are quite a few LMs in the vicinity: I think there are about 4 LM27s (including mine), an LM24, and an LM28 in the Orwell, and another LM27 in Walton Backwaters. I will be looking out for Bernina.

If you have dual engine controls you will usually have a separate knob to switch between the two (mine is a rotating T shaped lever/knob, positioned below the cockpit controls), and, yes, put the control not in use to neutral and tickover position.

In terms of steering, you may have already discovered that the wheel can be disconnected from the rudder and tiller by means of a hinged bracket under the aft deck which engages with another on the rudder post when lowered, and disconnects the wheel when raised. (Mind your fingers if you are doing this underway!) You don't have to disconnect the wheel, but it gives you a much lighter and responsive tiller when you are steering from the cockpit, and significantly reduces the load if you are using an autohelm connected to the tiller.

[take5]

Hi I have recently acquired Take5 an LM27 of 1978 vintage which is now berthed in Newhaven as I live in Brighton. The boat is generally in good condition, and I was wondering on how to disconnect the rudder from the hydraulic steering system as I have an autopilot that connects to the tiller. I noticed that it is very hard to steer with the tiller as it is connected to the hydraulics. I don't think my pilot will not have sufficient power to steer. Any practical way to disconnect the hydraulics without undoing the pin on the piston arm ?

[johnc]

This is a reply to Take5's additional question

I am no expert on hydraulics but I wonder if you were to connect a valve across the two pipes going to the hydraulic cylinder such that with the valve in the open position, the cylinder piston would be free to move back and forward thus reducing the load. That said, I would seek expert opinion before cutting into your hydraulic lines.

[Sula]

Hello Take 5. Welcome to the forum.

The wheel steering (hydraulic or otherwise) can be quickly (in seconds!) and simply disconnected from the rudder and tiller by means of a small hinged bracket under the aft deck (sorry, brainfade error in my earlier post, now corrected, said foredeck) which engages with another on the rudder post when lowered, and disconnects the wheel when raised. 

Centre your rudder.  Look under the aft deck, behind the table, from the side and you will see a couple of bars, one above the other, attached to the rudder shaft.  There is a bracket like an inverted U (with square corners) hinged from the upper bar, which can simply be lowered to engage with the bar below it.   Just lift this bracket up (it is hinged at the rear) and this will disconnect the wheel steering.  

The wheel steering drives the lower part.  The hinged bracket is attached to the upper part.   When the bracket is in the up position the two parts are not connected, and the wheel steering is not connected to the rudder at all, and does not turn it - only the tiller does.  The upper part (the bar with the hinged bracket on the end) is fixed to the rudder post (like a small tiller).  When the hinged bracket is lowered to engage with the bar below (they have to be lined up to do this), the wheel steering will turn the rudder and tiller (and also moving the rudder/tiller will turn the wheel).   

Mind your fingers if you are engaging or disengaging the bracket when underway!  

You don't have to disconnect the wheel to use the tiller, but doing so gives you a much lighter and responsive tiller when you are steering from the cockpit, and significantly reduces the load if you are using an autohelm connected to the tiller.

It's all much simpler to do and understand than to explain, once you've located the bracket and seen it raised and lowered.

I'll try to get some photographs of the bracket arrangement and upload them here, but it may take me some days.

Let us know how you get on.
 

[paulsailing]

I posted a few photos of the steering link on my lm27 under lm24 a few weeks ago...

[Sula]

I've taken the liberty of copying Paul's photo's from the other thread here, for convenience:





The pics remind me that I'd misremembered in my previous post (I'll amend that now) - it is the upper part that is fixed to the rudder, and the lower part which is attached to the wheel steering, and only connected to the rudder when the bracket hinged from the upper part (which is seen side on, and angled down) is in the lower, steering connected position, as shown in Paul's photos above.)  

[chrismunson]

There is a great advantage to steering with the tiller with the wheel still engaged in winds over 15k. IF, repeat IF your sail plan is balanced, then the LMs will pretty much sail themselves on a course relative to the apparent wind, and wiTh the helm semi-locked via the wheel still engaged, very small adjustments to the tiller will keep the boat on course, relative to the wind. This makes steering very easy, as the rudder is held by the resistance in the steering cable, with tiny 'trim tab' adjustments being all you need to do. The excellent design of all LM hulls and rigs make this possible. I often turn everything off and let my LM32 steer herself, for miles. Happy Boat!

[thompsontwins]

Bernina,

We are in Neptune Marina, Ipswich. LM 24

Paul

[oceandancer]

Hi Take 5,

Lm27s are not usually fitted with hydraulic steering but a simple morse cable.

It is usually quite low friction, I have never had the need to disconnect it from the tiller and my 1974 analogue autohelm seems to have no problem. You may not notice any undue friction from the wheel end.

First make sure that the small locking knob on the starboard side of the wheel boss is fully unscrewed.You may not have even noticed this as it is out of the usual line of sight

Then I suggest that you do disconnect the wheel and check for friction in the system. The spiral inner cable may well have become very dry after 41 years! It can be lubricated using a light oil from both ends and the lubricant will eventually work its way right along the cable with use.

Hope to see you down on  the Solent soon

Regards

Mick