For those of you with the Volvo type waterlock ie the one with stainless steel ends do remember to check it for leaks.
Just before embarking on a family sailing weekend l happened to look in the aft under cockpit locker and much to my surprise found a pool of water around the waterlock. It took me a few moments to realise that the water was coming from the bottom of the lower end of waterlock in a fine spray pattern. This was caused by a series of very fine holes which l presume have been caused by some form of corrosion despite the ends being formed of stainless steel.
After two good applications of Chemical Metal filler all was OK apart from the bilges being full of water !
For sure. The DV36 is the Rolls Royce of engines. 3 pistons placed with 120dg og the camshaft and counterrotating balance weights. No vibrations and in a LM30 close to soundless. I installed a new Volvo D1-30 3 years ago in my LM27 and today I regret I did not pay the extra 2500 pounds for a Bukh DV36, even though the Volvo is a fine, modern piece of machinery
l have found that the DV20 is a very smooth and quiet engine compared to the many other 1,2,3 & 4 cylinder engines that have been in the various boats l have owned. So 3 cylinders should be a lot smoother than 2 but that is what is fitted at the moment and that is the way it will stay until the time comes for replacing it! Also this is my first boat fitted with a Bukh so it's a learning curve.
As l said in my first post l've had a problem with the Volvo style water lock and also it's installation which may not have been an LM original fitting. l've now changed the water lock for a plastic type and re-routed the exhaust hose reducing its length before the water lock by 1m. What l did find on the old water lock is that both of the stainless steel ends were beginning to leak around the welds and one end in particular had some small holes below the weld as well.