LM 32 STANCHION LEAKS

[alisdairjohnston]

I have a leak into one of the saloon lockers. As far as I can see, it is coming from the stanchion base or the midships cleat.
On Nordlys ( and I guess most LM32s) the underside of the deck is boxed-in.

Is there a non-destructive way of getting to the base of the stanchion or cleat?

[Brian & Glenda]

While the base of the stanchions and cleats mounted onto the toe rails above the forward V berth can be accessed without destroying anything, I do not know of any non-destructive ways of accessing those above the main salon.

When I bought my LM32, I noted some fore and aft micro cracking in the gel coat only, emanating from the hardware that affixes the aft shrouds to the deck. I negotiated that the vendor would have backing blocks installed under this hardware to reinforce the aft shrouds with the hope that this would eliminate any increase in the severity or extent of this cracking. Effecting this repair necessitated cutting a neat rectangle through the ceiling pan in the salon under each fixing point. Once that was open, we found water in the space between the bottom of the deck, and the top of the ceiling headliner. We mopped up that water, but subsequently noted that it reappeared after each significant rainfall.

I too had found water in my salon cabinets, and on further investigation I also found a puddle on the top of the salon cabinet. How that puddle got from the top of the cabinet into the cabinet I never did figure out, but I did figure out where that water was coming from in the first place.

I had also noted some water in the small ledge / hand grip below the main salon windows. I determined that the salon windows were leaking, and discovered that fixing the leaking windows, eliminated both the leaks into and onto the top of the cabinets, and the water in the space between the bottom of the deck and the fiberglass salon headliner.

I believe that:
1) Some of the rainwater made it's way between the glass and the rubber seal of the leaky windows, and subsequently ran down the interior of the cabin top sides and across the ceiling pan, where it eventually dripped onto the top of the cabinets.

2) Some of the rainwater makes it way between the rubber seal and the aluminum window frame. The aluminum window frames have holes in the base of the U shaped channel that retains the glass in the rubber gasket. These holes drain into in the space between the deck molding, and the fiberglass salon headliner. I believe that this is how the water entered the space between the underside of the deck, and the fiberglass headliner.

Resealing the windows isn't easy, but it is not impossible. I currently have a minor leak in only one of the ten windows that I have resealed. I'll be working on that one day soon.

Hope that helps!
Brian.

[alisdairjohnston]

Evening Brian,

Thanks for a very detailed answer. Unfortunately it is kind of cold comfort, as I am certain the water isn't coming in through the starboard window!

The stanchion base is slightly wobbly which leads me to believe that this is the cause of the ingress.

Oh well ( he said,reaching for the hole saw)!

[Brian & Glenda]

Perhaps consider injecting epoxy, 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, or ??? under the stanchion from one side until it oozes out the other. You might need to build a dam of hot glue or some other such easily removable material on the injection side, to force the material out the opposite side.

If there is dirt trapped under the stanchion base you'd need to clean the gap as best you are able. (Water blast if any water getting through the mounting hole can be managed? or perhaps if you can get a string from one side to the other, scrub using a string carrying a cleanser threaded through the gap, followed by a string soaked in the appropriate solvent?).

Either would make the stanchion solid and seal any leak; but on the downside the epoxy would most likely make the stanchion base impossible to remove if the need arises in the future, while the 5200 would make it only nearly impossible to remove!

Random quick thoughts....
Brian

[Brian & Glenda]

Have you removed the stanchion yet to see how the base is mounted? Perhaps the stanchion base is held in place using a top mounted bolt, and the nut is captive in the fiberglass below? If true then perhaps the addition of a sealant forced under the base, followed by tightening the bolt would solve the problem?

[alisdairjohnston]

Brian

Good point- the stanchion is out, so I will have a good look over the weekend and see how it is fixed.

Thanks,

Alisdair

[chrismunson]

On my LM32, the stanchion posts are removable, and in the bottom of the stanchion socket you'll see a bolt head that penetrates the toe rail and is fastened below with a nut and washer = a very weak connection. I have dried these areas out and put silicone over the bolt head as a short-term fix for leaks. One of the problems with these boats is the toe rail is filled with foam and water can easily migrate through the boat from any leak into the toe rail. The best fix would be to remove the stanchion base, clean everything up and reseal using new fasteners. Access from below deck is very difficult to impossible in several places.

[alisdairjohnston]

Chris,

I am finding this out...!

[chrismunson]

Will post photos, all stanchion bases are accessible from below deck. In the saloon, remove the cabinet on either side to access the nuts and washers. They are the source of most mystery leaks. The sealant has dried out and water is seeping down. The fix is not as difficult as it seems.

[alisdairjohnston]

Thanks Chris, looking forward to the photos ( I haven't removed any wood yet- due to weather and Christmas)!

[alisdairjohnston]

Thanks Chris, looking forward to the photos ( I haven't removed any wood yet- due to weather and Christmas)!

[digger]

Hi have u checked Genoa car rail mine was leaking through one of screws fixing it to deck on my lm 28 ? . John