LM 27 Inner stays

[paulsailing]

We have an 83 Lm 27 fitted with bilge plates. I have been renovating since we bought Ebbtide last year....
I have read with interest the post on reinforcement of chain plates on the LM27. I have worked on the forestay and am moving on to the inners. The wire strop idea for the rear inner stays looks good, I think I will fit a similar design. Has anyone strengthened the front inners? If so a photo would be most useful.

Thanks

Paul 

[Sula]

Jandane has done it, and provides an explanation and photos on this thread: lmowners.proboards.com/thread/309/side-deck-thickness%C2%A0 

The front ones are harder to do (at least neatly), because the lockers are in the way of the ideal alignment, whereas the rear ones are entirely inside the lockers.  (The later LM26 (and presumably larger later models, too) has supports fitted as standard, and the locker design works round that.)

Note that the front inner stays should be under greater tension, according to the LM Guidance on LM27/LM24 rigging (http://lmowners.proboards.com/thread/261/trimming-rigging-lm-27-lm24), so would seem to have greater need for better support.

Someone else moved their inner stays to line up with the bulkheads for support - forward ones further forward, rear ones further aft - at the cost of some restriction to sail angles.

John

[paulsailing]

Thanks for the pointers, I do not want to restrict the sail angles further so will check out Jandane.
Thanks again Paul

[tonyp]

Paul, I have just done mine, basically as Jan's method, except I used off the shelf bits and attached the reinforcement to the grp flange that is below the lockers, instead of bonding a specially made plate to the hull.  I haven't yet tested the set up, but presume it will be better than before.  I have used M6 fittings, but can redo it in M8 if necessary.  The eyes are standard stainless lifting bolts, and I tapped threads into the plates used to fix to the deck fitting and the hull flange. The standard LM 27 shroud deck eye has just enough thread to take a 5mm thick if you discard the original backing/washer plate.  I used 20mm x 5mm A4 stainless flat bar. The connecting rod is just as Jan's: a rigging screw, a length of threaded bar and a coupling nut.



The only problem has been, as Jan mentions, with the sliding locker doors. One of mine works perfectly, the other fouls the truss rod!  I will sort it out eventually, but if you want to try this method, then I hope the diagram below might help you to get it right first time. 



My eye bolts are just threaded in to the plates and locked with a nut at the moment. This was so I can replace the M6 bits with M8 if necessary. Once I've confirmed the method works I will get mine welded in for security.

The job is a fiddle, so be warned, and I don't guarantee your lockers are the same as mine, so this method might not work! Jan's method might be better, as allows much greater flexibility, but thought you might like to look at it.

Good luck.

Tony

[paulsailing]

Tony
This looks really good, thank you. Your lockers look very similar to mine. I am going to use the flange at the base but bolt through some 1" stainless angle to try to change the angle enough to miss the locker door... it looks really close.... I am also going to use angle at the deck end.. again to try to make the angle more favourable. I think I am going to use a 5mm wire link between the turnbuckle and the base angle, it is easier to make up than a solid rod. When I finish I will post some photos.
Thanks again for the help.
Paul

[tonyp]

Glad to be of help, Paul. I am planning to deal with my problem in a similar way to you, but am going to use a piece of 15mm stainless box section to raise the bottom eye and thus change the angle of the rod.  I'll have to get an eye with a longer thread to run through the box to the plate below the flange and hope the box will transfer the loads adequately once they are bolted together.  I should have mentioned that once I'm happy with the set up I plan to epoxy hardwood blocks to the hull above the flanges to reinforce them. 
Tony

[paulsailing]

This is my version of the mod, just completed the setup. The wire just misses the track for the locker door...
Thanks for help from all.
Paul 

[Sula]

Thanks, Paul and Tony, for posting those ideas and pics.

I might even be tempted to have a go myself when the existing 'to do' list subsides a bit.

[jandane]

Jan 24, 2019 18:08:26 GMT paulsailing said:

This is my version of the mod, just completed the setup. The wire just misses the track for the locker door...
Thanks for help from all.
Paul 


View AttachmentView Attachment

It will work fine. Have seen it on several 27’ers - and for sure, it is more easy than the solution of mine.