LM27 Wheel house Window seals

[paulsailing]

One of the winter jobs on Ebbtide was to replace the window seals on the wheel house. New seals easy to get from Portmere rubbers but lots of fun to fit. The string method doesn't work as the seal has to be fitted to the hole rather than the glass then the glass has to be pushed into the slot peeling the rubber back as you go round. Took about 30 mins to do the small front window, but much longer to do the side as the fibreglass flexes away from you as you push the glass home.  Has anyone tried this job? Is it possible to strengthen the panel? screw a batten to the shelf inside? Any thoughts gratefully accepted as I still have 3 windows to go...

[Sula]

I am afraid I can't offer much help. I'm cheating and asking the boatyard to do mine! I may be paying them by the hour to struggle just as you've done!

I'm not clear why you say the seal has to go in the hole first. I understand that doing it one way might be easier than the other, but if that one way doesn't work. . .

Do you have the appropriate tool for forcing the rubber bit by bit into places it's reluctant to go? I think this may well be crucial.  



e.g. www.amazon.co.uk/CLAYTONRITE-rubber-window-seal-tool/dp/B01ENQPQQY

I think it's also a job where an additional pair of hands would be very useful, even if only to push back on the frame from the inside, make tea and offer moral support.

I didn't have one of those tools (or an assistant), or even know about either that tool's existence or the string technique, when many years ago (pre-internet days) I tried to change the window seals on a Leisure 17 (which has tiny windows with some very tight diameter curves). Despite hours of trying (oh how my fingers ached!) I couldn't get the windows back in, and still hadn't when I sold the boat a while later for that and other reasons to someone more practical than me.  Only later did I learn about those tools, and think had I had one I would probably have managed to get them in in the end.

There's at least one earlier thread on this forum about replacing window seals.  I'll have a hunt for it in case that provides any pointers, but as far as I can recall people had most trouble with the smaller windows in the curved cabin sides.

[Sula]

As a follow up to my previous post, here's the earlier thread on the topic - lmowners.proboards.com/thread/48/leaking-windows

Note that there are three pages to that thread (when you reach the end of each page, go back to the top to click for the next page - terrible design). I'd recommend reading the whole of the thread for a range of views, experiences and information. Several of TonyP's posts were particularly helpful, I thought.

Reviewing it again, I'd forgotten various tips. It makes me think -
1) get an assistant (or 2!) to help you if at all possible;
2) buy some suction holders, and cut one up as TonyP suggests;
3) use a hand sprayer to apply lots and lots of washing up liquid solution throughout the process;
4) consider doing it in warm weather if possible - everything is more flexible then.

I would consider using butyl sealant rather than silicon sealant that is suggested (by Seals Direct via TonyP ITRC). I have a good experience with butyl sealant in other types of windows, it remains flexible (except at the surface) and I think it may be better able to cope than silicon with movement (from heat and boat flexing etc.) in the long term. I also suspect (but don't know) it would be less relaint on adhesion to the rubber for its seal, and I think it will be difficult to really clear out all the washing-up liquid residue once the seals is in place.

Good luck with your endeavours and let us know how you get on.

[paulsailing]

Hi All
For obvious reasons the job is now on hold....Have time to think about it...

I have the tool for fitting the locking strip and there were 2 of us and it was a warm day and the seal was pre-warmed. The smaller window was relatively easy as the fibre glass is rigid in that area. The real issue was the side of the boat flexing away as we tried to push the window into the seal.

[tonyp]

I don't know if you've tried this, but if not, it might be worth a go.
Put a solid timber batten (2" x 2") right across the window opening, beyond where the seal's inner face will extend to, and chock it firmly in place with timber props (more 2 x 2?)run across the wheel house to the other side. Put wedges between the batten and the grp so that the batten is pushed tightly against the grp and snugly against the seal. You're only talking of thin wedges (possibly bits of thin ply), just enough that the batten is pushing the grp and not the seal. Someone working inside can keep an eye on the batten and props and make sure it all stays in position while the other person fits the perspex from outside, as usual. The batten will probably need moving as you work round the seal, and you may need battens of different lengths to do fore and aft and up and down.
I did something like this when I fitted my cabin windows single-handed, but I wish I'd had an assistant to keep an eye on the batten, and also to poke out the annoying bits of seal that got trapped under the perspex and needed pushing out from inside before the fitting could continue.
I hate this job and I'm going for bolt-on replacements over the next 12 months!
Tonyp

[paulsailing]

Good idea, will try that approach on the other side....when I am allowed!
Paul