Volvo Penta saildrive rubber diaphragm replacement
Sept 7, 2022 0:51:28 GMT
Post by boblm30 on Sept 7, 2022 0:51:28 GMT
Hi: My name is Bob and I purchased a 1984 LM30 about four years ago, a fresh water boat which has sailed the US Great Lakes since being imported and now sails on Lake Superior. This posting is related to LM 30s with Volvo Penta engines, primarily owners in the USA. My LM is equipped with a Volvo Penta MD 17D diesel with a 120S saildrive. I replaced the saildrive's rubber diaphragm this spring.
Removal and installation of a new Volvo Penta rubber diaphragm may, at first glance, appear to be beyond the ability of a novice but with patience it can be accomplished. The following procedural modifications were made during removal and installation.
There are a number of YouTube videos that provide helpful information.
Saildrive Diaphragm Replacement Sailing Britaly
Saildrive manchet vervangen deel 3 van 1, 2, 3
Volvo's manuals, which are included in Volvo's Rubber Diaphragm and gasket kit part #21389074, are generic and cover a number of engine sizes and saildrive models. Note that on this specific engine/saildrive/boat combination the heavy engine does not need to be moved forward but can remain in place. The entire job was completed by one person and requires at least 20 hours of work by a non-professional. Since my boat has only sailed in fresh water, corrosion is minimal.
Removal:
Remove the transmission oil and the propeller shaft to reduce weight. Reinstall new shaft seals if any hint of leakage is present and replace the bearings if needed.
Remove the water pump and hoses to facilitate pulling the saildrive. (Install a round plate over the hole on the engine to avoid contamination.)
Note the position of the mounting hardware for the transmission and acceleration cables.
The engine does not need to be disconnected from the mounting nor shifted forward.
The exhaust hose does not need to be removed.
Position the gear lever toward the stern to facilitate removal of the cotter pin.
Remove the oil dip stick and mounting tube to avoid damage. Temporary plug the hole to avoid contamination.
Before pulling the saildrive from the engine, tie a rope around the saildrive and attach it to a support positioned across the cockpit seats.
Pull the saildrive backwards, lift it up about 2” - 3” and suspend it using the rope. Then remove the metal ring from the rubber diaphragm.
Remove the saildrive and place it on wood blocks.
Transfer and mount the saildrive to a plywood base if needed.
Installation:
When reattaching the upper and lower saildrive units, apply a very thin layer of Permatex Form-A-Gasket # 2 Sealant on the two units. Excessive amounts of gasket sealant can interfere with the diaphragm's seal.
The cooling water valve can be replaced if needed. Note that it requires a 28 mm open end wrench and is extremely difficult to remove. The saildrive can be positioned on its side, gear shift lever up, attaching it to a large piece of plywood by using wood blocks, a cross piece of wood, and threaded rods. This provides a base so that sufficient leverage can be applied to the valve.
Note that a new O-ring may be needed between the saildrive and the engine depending on the sail-drive model.
Removal and installation of a new Volvo Penta rubber diaphragm may, at first glance, appear to be beyond the ability of a novice but with patience it can be accomplished. The following procedural modifications were made during removal and installation.
There are a number of YouTube videos that provide helpful information.
Saildrive Diaphragm Replacement Sailing Britaly
Saildrive manchet vervangen deel 3 van 1, 2, 3
Volvo's manuals, which are included in Volvo's Rubber Diaphragm and gasket kit part #21389074, are generic and cover a number of engine sizes and saildrive models. Note that on this specific engine/saildrive/boat combination the heavy engine does not need to be moved forward but can remain in place. The entire job was completed by one person and requires at least 20 hours of work by a non-professional. Since my boat has only sailed in fresh water, corrosion is minimal.
Removal:
Remove the transmission oil and the propeller shaft to reduce weight. Reinstall new shaft seals if any hint of leakage is present and replace the bearings if needed.
Remove the water pump and hoses to facilitate pulling the saildrive. (Install a round plate over the hole on the engine to avoid contamination.)
Note the position of the mounting hardware for the transmission and acceleration cables.
The engine does not need to be disconnected from the mounting nor shifted forward.
The exhaust hose does not need to be removed.
Position the gear lever toward the stern to facilitate removal of the cotter pin.
Remove the oil dip stick and mounting tube to avoid damage. Temporary plug the hole to avoid contamination.
Before pulling the saildrive from the engine, tie a rope around the saildrive and attach it to a support positioned across the cockpit seats.
Pull the saildrive backwards, lift it up about 2” - 3” and suspend it using the rope. Then remove the metal ring from the rubber diaphragm.
Remove the saildrive and place it on wood blocks.
Transfer and mount the saildrive to a plywood base if needed.
Installation:
When reattaching the upper and lower saildrive units, apply a very thin layer of Permatex Form-A-Gasket # 2 Sealant on the two units. Excessive amounts of gasket sealant can interfere with the diaphragm's seal.
The cooling water valve can be replaced if needed. Note that it requires a 28 mm open end wrench and is extremely difficult to remove. The saildrive can be positioned on its side, gear shift lever up, attaching it to a large piece of plywood by using wood blocks, a cross piece of wood, and threaded rods. This provides a base so that sufficient leverage can be applied to the valve.
Note that a new O-ring may be needed between the saildrive and the engine depending on the sail-drive model.