Electric windlass for LM27

[bobevans]

I am completely refitting my new-to-me LM27 and I intend to fit a windlass. I've searched this forum and read , I think, all the relevant posts. As others have made clear, the problem with the LM 27 is twofold. Firstly, given the small distance between the anchor locker and the stem head/bow roller, some kind of extension to hold the anchor is necessary. I have arranged for an extension to the roller to be welded on so this problem is, I think, solved. ( I have had this done on my last boat and it was most successful, anchoring most nights in the Med). The second problem is where to place the windlass so that chain falls easily into the locker. I have seen the solution posted on this board which involves extending the anchor locker into the forward cabin thus allowing the windlass to sit above the extended locker permitting the chain to fall directly down into the lower extension. This is a good solution but I'm reluctant to take on the work if another way can be found.

So, my question here relates to the nature of the electric windlass and how it 'drops' the chain. I have seen a very good anchor arrangement on an LM27 where a manual windlass placed behind the triangular locker feeds chain to a hawse pipe bolted to the middle of the locker lid. The owner has assured me that this works very well. However, this is a manual windlass which drops the chain forward, that is, not downwards into the locker. I'm wondering is it might be possible to bolt an electric windlass probably a vertical type just aft of the locker and onto a substantial hardwood base, thus raising the windlass perhaps 20mm from the deck. I would then adapt the locker lid plus the aft edge of the locker rim to allow the chain to fall into the locker. 

I have been unable to physically handle windlasses to see which might work best - most chandlers don't seem to keep these expensive items in stock. Can any one recommend a windlass which might be able to drop the incoming chain more forward than down?

Thanks for reading all this - I hope that it makes some sense!

Bob

[Sula]

I have an electric windlass on my LM27, installed by a previous owner, which works well. It is of the type with a horizontal axis, Lewmar brand IIRC, but I'd have to check the exact model. It works very well.

It is mounted on a wooden platform base, which in turn os mounted on the deck, to port of centre at the rear of the anchor locker (mine's of the triangular lid type). The 7mm chain goes over the top of the gypsy, rotates round the back of it, then drops down and a little forwards into the chain locker very easily. The left hand quarter or third of the chain locker lid has been chopped off to accommodate the wooden base of the windlass.

The main drawback to the arrangement is that there isn't enough distance for the shank of the anchor between the windlass and the standard bow roller. The anchor lives on the bow roller, and unless the anchor is deployed, the chain end of the anchor shank (I have a Bruce type of about 15lbs) has to sit on top of the windlass gypsy. It's not a real problem, but not very satisfactory. If you have extended your bow roller forward (something I aspire to), then I imagine it wouldn't be an issue.

The other shortcoming of my set up is that the anchor locker lid has only been roughly cut down to size, so its a bit scruffy and the end of the GRP not properly sealed. If one were doing this properly, one might either finish the shortened end of the locker lid more neatly and better waterproofed, or mount the wooden base slightly raised from the deck, so that the original anchor lid slips underneath it, with just a small cutaway for the chain to drop into the locker through.

Note that, contrary to traditional belief, the weight of the chain is a negligible factor in keeping the anchor in the sea bottom once the wind pipes up (the chain is a good as straight once the wind get to about, IIRC, 30 knots). 7mm is a more than adequate chain size for an LM27. In my view, 6mm would probably be adequate (and stronger than other fittings between the boat and the anchor), especially if it was higher strength chain (G40 spec IIRC). Smaller chain size = less weight in the bow, easier handling, and much less likely to pile up in the chain locker (not that my 7mm does). Alternatively, with smaller diameter chain one can have a much longer chain for the same weight, if that would be helpful in your cruising ground.

My windlass is currently controlled by a switch in the wheelhouse, from where I can't see, for instance, the anchor breaking the sea surface when I'm retrieving it. As I often sail single-handed, I end up walking backwards and forwards between the bow to look at/for the anchor, and back to the wheelhouse (where I can reach the controls through the hatch in the roof) to raise/lower it some more. I have bought, but not yet installed, a cheap Chinese radio remote control (circa £12 or £15 off ebay). Others tell me these work quite satisfactorily once you get used to the slight delay in response. (Alternatively, your windlass manufacturer will sell you a slicker one for several hundred pounds!)

I'd be interested to see your bow roller extension, once the current problem of the forum no longer accepting addition images (unless they are hosted elsewhere) is resolved.

[bobevans]

I have had a cheap Chinese remote on my last boat. Really useful but, and its a big but, these devices are susceptible to mobile phone signals and will operate the windlass if you leave the switch on. This results in seriously bent drop nose pins which retain the anchor. Don't ask me how I know. Thanks for your comments - more food for thought. Bob

[seekinglm]

Hello Sula,

Thanks, as always, for your helpful advice. An electric windlass is on my list for this winter. I fitted a bow thruster last winter (having reviewed your photos) and intend writing that up for other users at some point.

With regards to the remote control, I often sail single-handed, or could sometimes do with a "second opinion" when others are telling me where the mooring buoy is or whether the anchor has surfaced etc. So last winter I also fitted a small reversing camera under the front nav light. With the screen and cabling it cost around £60, and gives me a clear view immediately in front of the bow from the wheelhouse. I was out in quite wet and windy conditions on Wednesday and was able to pick up a buoy on my own when I stopped for lunch - just by nipping out to pick up the buoy once I had it approaching the starboard side of the bow.

You have probably guessed the schoolboy error I made by now: it's mirror-image, so when I am berthing or picking up a mooring buoy I have to adjust my brain for that. I will swap the camera this winter, however.

Thanks again

Andy

[bobevans]

Andy,

Update to my October post above. I have just fitted a Lofrans SX1 windlass just aft of the anchor locker on my LM27. This type of windlasses is difficult to find in the UK - I sourced it from Germany - but it is different from the Lofrans X1 which is widely available here and incorporates a hole in the base to enable the recovered chain to fall directly down into the locker. This arrangement can only work on the lM27 if the windlass is bolted to the anchor locker lid which I didn't wish to do. In order to overcome the problem noted by Sula above I have had a local fabricator extend the bow roller fitting so that the stowed anchor sits further forward. I have purchased 50 metres of calibrated 6mm chain (yes, I'm happy that this is strong enough) and I'll be fitting this as soon as the temperature warms up. I will then decide whether or not to fit a hawse pipe in the centre of the chain locker lid.

I hope that this helps - the boat is currently in Newhaven, East Sussex if you'd like a look. (I understand that I can't currently post photos here.)

Bob


PS I like your camera idea....

[seekinglm]

Thanks Bob - I would be interested to see photos once you have done it, or perhaps pop over from Poole in the spring. Regards Andy