Bukh DV24 removal of raw water inlet to block

[tonyp]

Before I go to the faff of removing the flywheel of our Bukh 24, has anyone managed to remove the raw water inlet pipe to the block which is behind it, without first removing the flywheel? 
Aaaaagh!
Tony

[Sula]

It can be done, but fiddly and needs the right tools. I've not done it myself, but read on several occasions of people doing it, e.g. this thread on YBW forum (see final post in thread for the tools needed) www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?221106-Material-for-gasket-on-Bukh-raw-water-inlet&s=9a06cd5238bda57f3f678acfadd26464


p.s. If I recall correctly, if you do remove the flywheel you ought to replace the flywheel bolts, and not just with any old bolts that fit, but the proper special type.   (I've forgotten details, but again, there'll be something about it on YBW forum if you search.  n.b Use Google search, including 'YBW' in the search terms - the search facility on the YBW forum itself is not very good.)   Flywheel coming adrift could be catastrophic.

[tonyp]

Thanks for this, Sula. I had seen the posts you mentioned but was hoping that someone here would say they've done it and it's not as hard as some people say!
I am prepared to remove the flywheel, if necessary, and have new Unbrako cap bolts to refit it, but if I can avoid removing it, I'd like to.
Tony

[tonyp]

As you say, John, it's perfectly feasible to remove the distributor pipe from the block, and the right tools help.
For anyone attempting this on a dv24, (I can't speak for other models), a length of 6mm Allen key about 35-40mm long will help. You can fit this to the pipe's retaining screws, which are 6mm Allen cap screws, with something like blue tac, (I used butyl rubber sealing tape which is bit stickier). This aids handling the screws while you are working down the 50 mm wide gap between the flywheel and the block.
You need to remove the fan belt and tip the alternator to one side then undo the pipe from the distributor pipe at the thermostat. Having removed the distributor pipe's retaining screws you can then jiggle the distributor pipe free from the block, behind the flywheel.


You'll see the state that mine had got into!  There are 3 holes in the distributor pipe, and one of mine was completely blocked and had virtually blocked the pipe, and the inlet port in the block was completely scaled up.  No wonder I was having over-heating problems!




After cleaning the port a bit I began to see its proper shape! 

Replacement is pretty straightforward, but fiddly, primarily around handling the cap screws in such a confined space. The whole job, from start to finish, probably took about 2 hours, but I wouldn't like to do it afloat! I replaced the gasket with a home made nitrile rubber one (oh, how I bless ebay for cheap tools - hollow punches make gasket production so easy!)

tony