Replacement of seatoilet on 1979 LM30

[philipandhilary]

Reluctantly, we need to replace our RM69 Seatoilet (buying a new pump assembly hasnt gone well).

Does anyone know if the original RM69 toilet is secured by screws or bolts ? 

If by bolts, is there any way of getting to the underside of the plinth where the toilet is mounted? 

Thanks

[bobevans]

As part of the refurbishment of my LM7, I ripped out the existing RM69 and replaced it with a Jabsco. The original toilet was simply screwed down but, of course, the original screw holes did not match the ones needed for the new one. I chose to fill the old holes, cutting an access panel in the front/inboard side of the glass fibre toilet base and then bolting the new toilet down. I will fix a wooden facia plate to conceal the holes. As it is not possible to have loops above the water level in the inlet & outlet pipes due to the sliding sink, I have chosen to add sea cocks in the toilet compartment in case of siphoning. These can be shut by the user before/after use if necessary. Of course, arrangements in other LMs may differ but the principles probably remain the same.

Bob

[philipandhilary]

Thank you Bob Evans. Did you say an LM7? Anyhow that is helpful advice - we had thought of cutting access holes in that upstand

[Brian & Glenda]

On our LM32, there is enough space at the aft end (but not at the fwd end) of the sink, even when the sink is completely pushed back against the hull; to get vented loop hoses tucked up to the underside of the side deck. That's what I did on our LM 32. I don't now if an LM30 would have the same sized, or a differently configured space behind the sink.

Brian.

[Sula]

I am about to tackle replacing the toilet on an LM27, and the info and suggestions from Bob and Brian are very helpful.

On my LM27 the toilet outlet pipe goes down through a hole in the GRP base and then through a hole in the ply bulkhead between the toilet compartment exiting under the sink in the galley. I had pondered enlarging that hole in the bulkhead to provide access to the underside of the toilet base (which could be an alternative to forming a hole in the front of the base). If one did make a hole in the front of the base it could perhaps be covered by one of those circular small plastic hatches (typically used for access to lockers/buoyancy tanks on dinghies).

I've also considered routing the pipework through new holes in the toilet/galley bulkhead (above the base) to allow anti-syphon valves to be positioned somewhere around the galley sink but haven't yet examined how feasible this is.

Note that the closer to the boat's centre-line the anti-syphon valves are positioned, the less height is required to ensure they remain above the (external) waterline when heeled. Unfortunately the LM27's toilet compartment is so tight I wouldn't want the width further restricted by pipework inside the compartment, even aside from any aesthetic considerations.

I am replacing an old TMC toilet, and would prefer to fit a Lavac, as I've found these very satisfactory in the past, but the need to mount and accommodate the separate large pump provides challenges in the restricted space, and complications in fitting when I have very limited time to do it, so intend to fit a Jabsco, at least for now.

[philipandhilary]

May 30, 2023 18:50:41 GMT bobevans said:

As part of the refurbishment of my LM7, I ripped out the existing RM69 and replaced it with a Jabsco. The original toilet was simply screwed down but, of course, the original screw holes did not match the ones needed for the new one. I chose to fill the old holes, cutting an access panel in the front/inboard side of the glass fibre toilet base and then bolting the new toilet down. I will fix a wooden facia plate to conceal the holes. As it is not possible to have loops above the water level in the inlet & outlet pipes due to the sliding sink, I have chosen to add sea cocks in the toilet compartment in case of siphoning. These can be shut by the user before/after use if necessary. Of course, arrangements in other LMs may differ but the principles probably remain the same.

Bob

Dear Bob,
Did you find there was any wooden backing under the fibreglass where the RM69 was mounted? If it was just screwed down, there may have been a wooden backing glassed in?
Of course it might not be exactly the size needed to site the new base.
Thanks Hilary

[bobevans]

Hilary,
There was no wooden backing on my boat, The fibre glass moulding is quite thick here so screws were probably adequate (it lasted nearly 40 years with no problem). I chose to use bolts but I’m sure that screws would be fine.

Bob

[pete]

Hi all,

We replaced the original RM 69 on our 30 last year. There is a wooden backing on Flipsam, so we just drilled new holes for the replacement Albin unit which was on offer at the time - soft close lid et al, and used the same stainless coach bolts. The pipework was fine so that was a straight swap.
Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Pete.